Gudeg in Yogyakarta
On my third visit to Yogyakarta, I ate gudeg for breakfast with Pak Lukas of Atma Jaya University.
Gudeg is cooked jackfruit (nangka), stewed for many hours with palm sugar (gula merah) and various spices. Delicious! Although it looks very caramelized in the close-up above, it is much less sweet than American candied yams; the flavor is more complex than that, and the taste is more than just sweetness.
Lukas picked me up at 8 a.m. and took me to this resto on the north side of the campus of Gadjah Mada University. It was a very clean and pleasant street, lined with many small businesses. This restaurant is rather large, although it was not very full at that hour.
The gudeg is in the front. Clockwise: Beef skin (no thank you), a hot pepper, delicious tofu of a type I had not eaten before (amazing — the endless variety of tofu here), stewed chicken thigh and a hard-boiled egg (both hiding under the tofu).
Lukas mentioned that it’s nice to eat gudeg first thing in the morning because most places are cooking it at night (it must be cooked for hours), so the morning is when it’s freshest. Only a few places will cook it during the day, so if you eat gudeg in the evening, it’s probably been sitting around since last night. Ugh!
Here’s the menu from our gudeg restaurant today. Fifteen variations, but every one includes gudeg and rice (nasi). Rp 9,000 is slightly less than $1 U.S. Paha atas is chicken thigh, and dada is chicken breast. We had Paket 13, less than $3 U.S., and quite a lot of food for breakfast!
Below you’ll see me, after eating, standing on the sidewalk beneath the restaurant’s sign.